The cyclo driver - Nha Trang

Two decades of rapid economic development have seen the ranks of Vietnam’s cyclo fraternity diminish. Cyclos are restricted in big cities like Saigon and Hanoi and tend to serve as a novelty for tourists. Drivers have mostly traded their cyclos for motorcycle taxis (xe om), taxis or retirement. They’re still more widely used in the provinces. Through the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s, the cyclo, like the Honda Cub and the three-wheeled Lambretta, was a key part of Vietnam’s transportation infrastructure. After 1975, cyclo drivers in the the southern half of the country tended to be drawn from the ranks of the vanquished South Vietnamese army (ARVN) who didn’t manage to escape. Having fought on the losing side in the Vietnam War, their work opportunities were limited. When I first arrived in Vietnam in the early 90s, cyclo drivers were often eloquent and gracious tour guides. They taught me a lot. They could be depended on to speak better English than the government officials and business leaders that we’d meet at the time who were more likely to trained in the languages of the former Soviet Union. Bonding with cyclo drivers was part and parcel of travelling here. As tourism grew, more dubious players entered the cyclo ranks and many tourists came unstuck. Travelling by cyclo can still be tricky. Be careful. It’s less so in the provinces, though Hue cyclo drivers have a bad reputation. There are always risks. I spent an enjoyable afternoon yesterday with Mr Loi, 59, cruising around Nha Trang on Vietnam’s southern coast. A father of three, Loi was an ARVN soldier for the final years of the war. He’s been a cyclo driver for 25 years. His good humour shone through despite what must have been a pretty tough life. These older cyclo drivers, veterans of Vietnam's long war, are slowly moving into retirement as the cyclo itself moves closer to extinction.