UPDATE: IN LATE DECEMBER 2013, ZONE 9 WAS CLOSED DOWN PERMANENTLY BY HANOI OFFICIALS. ALL THE VENUES REFERENCED BELOW IN ZONE 9 HAVE EITHER CLOSED OR RELOCATED. WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THIS MESSAGE, THE BLOG POST HAS NOT BEEN EDITED SINCE BEING WRITTEN IN AUGUST 2013.
Getting a drink after midnight in downtown Hanoi has long been a struggle for travellers. One weekend a favourite spot will be buzzing till the early hours, the next, the local police arrive and abruptly shut things down at 11 or 12. It's a scene that's played out endlessly in the old quarter since the 90s.
Photo: Mark BowyerBarbetta 2, Zone 9, Hanoi
Those wanting a late night refreshment have had to choose between getting locked behind shutters in illegal firetraps set up to evade the police, or taking a cab to seedy Phuc Tan.
Finally though, the first signs of a more interesting and hopefully consistent nightlife, look to be taking shape around a new area called Zone 9.
Photo: Mark BowyerZone 9, Hanoi
Zone 9 is a complex of abandoned mainly colonial era industrial buildings and warehouses. There's also a classic piece of Soviet style brutalist architecture in the mix. It's all located a little away from the city's main tourist areas but accessed in 5 minutes by taxi. Prior to its abandonment, Zone 9 was home to Pharmaceutical Enterprise No. 2.
A group of savvy locals, some of them familiar Hanoi cafe owners, are behind the buzzing new precinct that's adding some spice to the city's nights.
Long time Hanoi favourites, Tadioto and Barbetta, have set up - along with other new bars, cafes, boutiques and galleries.
Photo: Mark BowyerZone 9, Hanoi
By accident, Hanoi suddenly has the kind of nightlife and cultural precinct other cities often need to plan out. That's no guarantee it will last though.
The Hanoi powers that be tend to prefer decisions from the top. Such a spontaneous, organic development may ruffle some feathers. The creation of public spaces or art spaces hasn't been one of the strong points of Vietnam's two decades long experiment with openness and the whole Zone 9 complex is said to be slated for demolition. We're told there are no leases beyond three years.
So enjoy Zone 9 for now at least - and let's hope there might be some official recognition that places like this are important to the city's cultural fabric.
The new Tadioto is a huge space with a great area for art exhibitions and performances. It's a bustling bar too, alive with conversation from a mixed crowd of locals and foreigners.
Photo: Mark BowyerTadioto Hanoi.
Photo: Mark BowyerTadioto Hanoi.
Photo: Mark BowyerTadioto Hanoi.
Owner, author Nguyen Qui Duc, is a big supporter of the local arts scene and has great hopes for the new area as a place for young Hanoians to develop their artistic talents and have some fun too.
As an aside, if you want to know more of Nguyen Qui Duc's incredible story, check out his book Where the Ashes Are. It's a very personal account of his journey through the Vietnam War as a child, the capture and imprisonment of his father by the communists - he was a senior official in the South Vietnamese Government - to a less than satisfying life in America.
The people behind Hanoi's groovy Barbetta Cafe, not far from Ba Dinh Square, have opened a second spot in Zone 9, Barbetta II. It's a mellow cafe by day that morphs into a happening club on weekends with a dance floor and DJs.
There are plenty of remnants from the former warehouse on display, including the odd piece of industrial equipment, mixed up with Barbetta's trademark quirkiness.
Photo: Mark BowyerBarbetta 2, Zone 9, Hanoi
Photo: Mark BowyerOne of the owners, Mr Thanh, Barbetta 2, Zone 9, Hanoi
Photo: Mark BowyerBarbetta 2, Zone 9, Hanoi
Photo: Mark BowyerBarbetta 2, Zone 9, Hanoi
Photo: Mark BowyerBarbetta 2, Zone 9, Hanoi
Photo: Mark BowyerBarbetta 2, Zone 9, Hanoi
Unfortunately both bars are blanketed in cigarette smoke whenever they're busy.
Zone 9 has attracted a few Saigon imitations too. Unplugged Lounge feels a lot like Saigon's Acoustic Cafe with local bands performing pop covers of everything from Abba to Bon Jovi. And District 1 looks suspiciously like a mediocre copy of Saigon's popular L'Usine cafes.
Photo: Mark BowyerUnplugged Lounge Hanoi
Photo: Mark BowyerDistrict 1, Hanoi - borrowing liberally from L'Usine in Saigon
Photo: Mark BowyerDistrict 1, Hanoi
Photo: Mark BowyerDistrict 1, Hanoi
Zone 9's only just getting started. During my visit, there was plenty of work under way with new cafes, bars, fashion outlets and art spaces bringing the old buildings to life.
Photo: Mark BowyerPlenty more coming to Zone 9.
Meanwhile, back in the old quarter, there are plenty of changes afoot as well.
While Hanoi's tourist heartland might go quiet after midnight these days, prior to that, it's busier than ever. Beer corner (Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen Sts), where travellers have long gathered with locals to sample cheap bia hoi (fresh beer), has spilled over into Ta Hien St. The beer's mainly from the bottle these days and it's a chaotic clamour of backpacker festivity, motorbike engines and clashing beats from competing bars.
Photo: Mark BowyerTa Hien St, old quarter, Hanoi
The boom on Ta Hien St seems to have followed a big spike in backpacker arrivals in Hanoi. For better or worse, Vietnam has well and truly made it onto the Asian backpacker party trail. Some say it's benefiting from the crackdown on Vang Vieng's party scene in Laos.
Zone 9 is located at 9 Tran Thanh Tong St south of the Metropole Hotel opposite Pasteur Park and amidst some spectacular colonial era buildings. It's worth visiting the area for a casual stroll in the day.
To check out all the details on Hanoi's new venues, see our updated Hanoi nightlife listings here.
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