The lure of Hanoi's streets

On my most recent visit to Vietnam, I wanted to photograph a very simple street restaurant in Hanoi where the plastic stools are tiny and low, the walls look like they haven't had a coat of paint since the French were run out of town and the customers line up by the hundreds knowing that a true gourmet experience awaits them. The owner saw me and asked that I not take any photos. I asked why?. He replied "tai Vietnam ngheo" - "because Vietnam's poor". The scene was rich with life and spirit for me, but for him, my interest was its poverty. He suggested I should photograph a newer restaurant a few shops further on - the likes of which can be found anywhere. I insisted to him that I found his place more appealing - but he wouldn't be swayed.

I've had variations on this experience on many occasions as a traveller in Vietnam. When you're photographing a market, or a street seller or even an old building, there are locals who think you are wanting to capture an image of deprivation - when in fact you believe you're capturing an image of richness.

Walking the streets in many Asian cities seems to take on additional significance for travellers from Western countries. We seem to be drawn not only to the different sights, sounds and smells, but to the presence of something lacking in our own cities.

Hanoi is one of my favourite walking cities. In the midst of enormous change, the essence of the city seems to have held steady - for now at least - although I hear that the wrecking balls are crashing through many of the city's lovely buildings as I write. What is so striking about Hanoi is that the streets and their many public spaces are alive with locals of all ages talking, sipping coffee, drinking bia hoi (draught beer), exercising, reading and playing. The old are as much a part of this as the young. The rich are there with the less wealthy. Australian cities miss this wonderful cacophany. There are glimpses in some city centres but outer suburban life in Australia is mostly bereft of such interaction.

It's especially nice to see the claim that the elderly make on the city. They're everywhere. And while Vietnam's health and welfare systems are in poor shape, in Hanoi at least, the sense of belonging that sees the elderly on the streets exercising, walking and talking must have a very positive physical and psychological health effect.

Western cities have done so much right in terms of planning, public space and transport - what we've gotten wrong is not understanding our attraction to being around one another. While many Hanoians may be craving more space and fewer people, they shouldn't wish too hard. Most Westerners love and long for the sense of life that they find in the streets of cities like Hanoi.