Travels to Sapa and Vietnam's north Part 3 - Sapa hotels

I spent my first Sapa night of this trip at the Cat Cat View Hotel. It's one of the many hotels ascending into the sky on a reasonably small patch of land. It's an unattractive building with stunning views. With a few exceptions, hotel developers in Sapa have not made much effort to create buildings that sit in harmony with the natural environment. It's all about building yourself a better view. The more recent the structure, the taller it will need to be.

If you're planning to spend anything less than the $180USD plus being asked by the Victoria Sapa (the only truly international hotel in town), you'll likely end up in one of these towering beasts. They are pleasant and pretty good value. Just look out from them and not at them!

The Cat Cat View Hotel staff were friendly. They also promised in room internet so I could fire off these dispatches. At 30USD a night, I also got a good view. Problem was, the internet didn't work.

When I climbed into bed on Thursday night, every traveller's nightmare hit. I'm a fairly relaxed traveller but cleanliness - especially sheets and pillows - are non negotiable. It is true that I have tolerated suspect hair and dodgy smells in years past and I might be forgiving in some of the world's most remote spots - but not in Sapa at 30USD per night.

Seems my predecessor in the said bed was a heavy smoker. And the smell of humanity mixed with cigarette smoke permeated the bed. It was not a nice way to end an otherwise excellent day. But I wasn't ready to change rooms or complain to hotel staff at this stage. I resigned myself to contorting into a position where the intake of the offending fumes was minimised. Off to sleep I went.

The next morning I smelt like a huge night of smoking and drinking on the town had been had - and I hadn't left my room. It was time to bid the Cat Cat View farewell. I was also keen to try at least one other hotel in the 30USD category.

 

I should say that I doubt this problem is normal practice at Cat Cat View. They were mortified when I advised that I was checking out and they were genuinely anxious to try and address my concerns. They also graciously handled the cancellation of my second night.

One more point about the Cat Cat View Hotel worth noting - it isn't on the main street - which may be a good or a bad thing depending on your perspective. It is close to everything in the middle of town but you don't walk out into the main action. There are road works taking place on this street as well.

My next Sapa hotel was the Holiday Sapa Hotel. I stumbled across it after I decided to move from the Cat Cat View. The room I took was the same price, 30USD. Delxue rooms are 40USD. I was much happier here. I preferred the location on the main strip. I also preferred the hotel. The internet worked, it was clean, breakfast was better than Cat Cat View and staff were also very nice and very helpful. I should note that it was another fairly sorry piece of architecture and like most of the new hotels in Sapa, it was aging quickly although it is quite new.

The next step up in Sapa hotels is the Chau Long. It has rooms starting at 30USD but its new wing at around 80USD plus, did not seem to represent a step up to warrant the price jump. 

Once again, the Chau Long does not complement the mountain scenes. Its faux castle exterior making it look more like a children's fun park than an accommodation aspiring to four and five stars. Hard to justify this place. It is probably 10% to 20% better than 30USD rooms at nearly three times the price.

In a stroke of luck, I stumbled across a very special option for those looking to spend 70 - 90USD per night. The Cha Pa Garden Boutique Hotel is a relatively new tiny hotel (4 rooms) trying to do something that Sapa so desperately needs - a hotel in tune with the town's heritage and location that connects with its minority cultures.

The Cha Pa Garden Boutique Hotel is owned by a young Norwegian and his Hmong wife. They acquired a rundown French villa and renovated it in a style that is both modern and aware of the heritage character of the building. Rooms are simple and tasteful. Staff are all from local Hmong communities.

Vietnam desperately needs many more quality small hotels like this - though ideally not quite this small - the owners have plans for another ten rooms when they can raise the cash.

The concept of boutique anything seems to have no meaning with tourism planners in Vietnam, despite the global movement towards smaller more personal accommodations. Even big cities like Saigon and Hanoi have no real boutique style hotels.

Sapa is crying out for small tasteful hotels.

The Victoria Sapa Hotel is the choice for travellers looking for international standards and facilities. The hotel is a short walk from downtown which gives it breathing space that other properties tend not to have.

One senses that the owners, the Victoria Hotel Group, have achieved a lot without investing a huge amount here. Still, the results are good and I have had several very comfortable stays on previous visits. The structure is low rise and sits comfortably on a large plot of land. Rooms are tastefully done without any ostentation.

Sapa's mid range hotels represent very good value for money. At the top end, the Victoria's rates take full advantage of its monopoly on international standard rooms. But it's a nice hotel.

Be aware that Sapa gets very busy at weekends with locals and expats travelling up from Hanoi. Prices can change depending on how busy things are.