Hoi An | eating guide

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Streets of food - best streets for foodies in Hoi An

| 02 Dec 2018
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Streets of food - best streets for foodies in Hoi An
02 Dec 2018

Hoi An’s old town has been colonised by tourist eateries. Some of them are good. Many are mediocre. Make sure you also head outside the old town. There are a handful of streets offering a mix of decades-old Hoi An eateries and some newer places serving local and international eats. We love these old places. You can create your own little Hoi An street food tour wandering between them. Here are the best food streets to check out outside the main restaurant area of Hoi An's old town.

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Thai Phien St and Tran Cao Van streets

It’s worth taking a wander along Hoi An’s Thai Phien Street whether you’re hungry or not. Not far from the old town and close by an area with quite a few hotels, it’s a visual and culinary feast.

We’ve tried a bunch of street eateries along here at different times (I often stay nearby). There are excellent Cao Lao, My Quang and Banh My options available.

These eateries operate in shifts - as is common throughout Vietnam. Expect different dishes through the morning, the afternoon and evening. You can easily come by a few times during a stay. And look beyond our recommendations too. If a place looks busy and the food looks interesting - jump in.

Thai Phien St local eateries, Hoi An
Photo: Mark Bowyer Thai Phien St local eateries, Hoi An

 

Quan Cao Lau Thanh

Many locals say this old haunt is the best cao lau in town. I stay away from these debates - but Cao Lau Thanh is friendly, busy and very tasty. Cao lau is all they do.  Cao lau is Hoi An's delicious noodle specialty. You could easily knock down a bowl every day. Especially busy in the mornings.

Address: 26 Thai Phien St Hoi An

Thai Phien St local eateries, Hoi An
Photo: Mark Bowyer Thai Phien St local eateries, Hoi An

 

Quan Nam Bao My Quang

A modest my quang establishment with a loyal local following. Nam Bao now sells other dishes too. My quang noodles consist of wide white noodles, pork, shrimp and a small amount of broth. The dish originates from the central part of Vietnam. It's delicious and you’ll see it being devoured on pavements all over Hoi An - and Vietnam.

Address: 199 Tran Cao Van St, Hoi An

Hoi An street eats - Quan Nam Bao
Photo: Mark Bowyer Hoi An street eats - Quan Nam Bao

 

Banh My Ba Khanh

Banh My Ba Khanh has been pleasing locals for decades - and it's far less busy than Banh My Phuong (see below). Lovely family still on deck though Ba Khanh (grandma Khanh) is getting on and seems to spend less time working.

Address: 115 Tran Cao Van, Hoi An

Banh My Ba Khanh Hoi An
Photo: Mark Bowyer Banh My Ba Khanh Hoi An

 

These are just three suggestions. There are loads more places to eat on these two streets - and loads more dishes on offer - including some western eateries. Experiment!

 

Phan Chau Trinh St

A decade ago Phan Chu Trinh was all local eateries. Things have changed and now the strip hosts a more mixed culinary bag that includes some international eating.

Here are the Phan Chu Trinh eateries we’ve listed already - many for years now. Some are buckling under the demand of Hoi An’s tourism surge so don’t hesitate to try something new! Expect a good mix of international and local tourists at most of these places. The “local” Hoi an locals have mostly fled further afield.

 

Com Ga Ba Buoi (see link)

One of the city’s old eateries - serving chicken rice (com ga) since the 1950s. Great food and a wonderful old space - but the crowds are building. I've been eating here for more than a decade and shot the video below back in 2010.

Address: 22 Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An

 

Banh My Phuong (see link)

Banh My Phuong’s legendary status was built on the fame of Anthony Bourdain. He fell in love with their baguettes years ago and business has boomed ever since. They keep expanding but they can’t keep up with the crowds. Worth the wait if the lines aren’t too long.

Address: 2B Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An

Banh My Phuong, Hoi An
Photo: Mark Bowyer Banh My Phuong, Hoi An

 

Ba Le Well (see link)

Another Hoi An original - that’s hidden away down a lane off Phan Chu Trinh. They’ve expanded but continue to attract good crowds of locals and visitors. Ba Le Well serves a set of spring rolls, banh xeo pancakes and satay - perfect for a robust meal with a few beers.

Address: 38 Phan Chau Trinh St, Hoi An

 

Hola Taco (see link)

The Australian owner and his Hanoian wife are great hosts and the steady crowds suggest there's demand for Mexican food in Hoi An. Perfect if you need a break from the local fare.

Address: 9 Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An

Hola Taco, Hoi An
Photo: Mark Bowyer Hola Taco, Hoi An

 

Mark Bowyer
Mark Bowyer is the founder and publisher of Rusty Compass.
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