Thai Phien St and Tran Cao Van streets
It’s worth taking a wander along Hoi An’s Thai Phien Street whether you’re hungry or not. Not far from the old town and close by an area with quite a few hotels, it’s a visual and culinary feast.
We’ve tried a bunch of street eateries along here at different times (I often stay nearby). There are excellent Cao Lao, My Quang and Banh My options available.
These eateries operate in shifts - as is common throughout Vietnam. Expect different dishes through the morning, the afternoon and evening. You can easily come by a few times during a stay. And look beyond our recommendations too. If a place looks busy and the food looks interesting - jump in.
Photo: Mark Bowyer Thai Phien St local eateries, Hoi An
Quan Cao Lau Thanh
Many locals say this old haunt is the best cao lau in town. I stay away from these debates - but Cao Lau Thanh is friendly, busy and very tasty. Cao lau is all they do. Cao lau is Hoi An's delicious noodle specialty. You could easily knock down a bowl every day. Especially busy in the mornings.
Address: 26 Thai Phien St Hoi An
Photo: Mark Bowyer Thai Phien St local eateries, Hoi An
Cao Lau Lien
Just down the road from Cao Lau Thanh, Cao Lau Lien brings the crowds of locals in each afternoon. We're told Madam Lien has been serving up Hoi An's specialty for even longer than her neighbour. Madam Lien tells me she only opens 3 - 4 hours a day from around 2PM so business must be good. You’ll need to arrive on her terms to sample her fine work - afternoons outside normal meal times.
Address: Cao Lau Lien, 16 Thai Chien St, Hoi An
Photo: Mark Bowyer Madam Lien's famous cao lau stall, Hoi An
Quan Nam Bao My Quang
A modest my quang establishment with a loyal local following. Nam Bao now sells other dishes too. My quang noodles consist of wide white noodles, pork, shrimp and a small amount of broth. The dish originates from the central part of Vietnam. It's delicious and you’ll see it being devoured on pavements all over Hoi An - and Vietnam.
Address: 199 Tran Cao Van St, Hoi An
Photo: Mark Bowyer Hoi An street eats - Quan Nam Bao
Banh My Ba Khanh
Banh My Ba Khanh has been pleasing locals for decades - and it's far less busy than Banh My Phuong (see below). Lovely family still on deck though Ba Khanh (grandma Khanh) is getting on and seems to spend less time working.
Address: 115 Tran Cao Van, Hoi An
Photo: Mark Bowyer Banh My Ba Khanh Hoi An
These are just three suggestions. There are loads more places to eat on these two streets - and loads more dishes on offer - including some western eateries. Experiment!
Phan Chau Trinh St
A decade ago Phan Chu Trinh was all local eateries. Things have changed and now the strip hosts a more mixed culinary bag that includes some international eating.
Here are the Phan Chu Trinh eateries we’ve listed already - many for years now. Some are buckling under the demand of Hoi An’s tourism surge so don’t hesitate to try something new! Expect a good mix of international and local tourists at most of these places. The “local” Hoi an locals have mostly fled further afield.
One of the city’s old eateries - serving chicken rice (com ga) since the 1950s. Great food and a wonderful old space - but the crowds are building. I've been eating here for more than a decade and shot the video below back in 2010.
Address: 22 Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An
Banh My Phuong’s legendary status was built on the fame of Anthony Bourdain. He fell in love with their baguettes years ago and business has boomed ever since. They keep expanding but they can’t keep up with the crowds. Worth the wait if the lines aren’t too long.
Address: 2B Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An
Photo: Mark Bowyer Banh My Phuong, Hoi An
Another Hoi An original - that’s hidden away down a lane off Phan Chu Trinh. They’ve expanded but continue to attract good crowds of locals and visitors. Ba Le Well serves a set of spring rolls, banh xeo pancakes and satay - perfect for a robust meal with a few beers.
Address: 38 Phan Chau Trinh St, Hoi An
Hola Taco (see link)
The Australian owner and his Hanoian wife are great hosts and the steady crowds suggest there's demand for Mexican food in Hoi An. Perfect if you need a break from the local fare.
Address: 9 Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An
Photo: Mark Bowyer Hola Taco, Hoi An
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