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    • Saigon's disappearing heritage
    Gallery

    Saigon's disappearing heritage

    By Mark Bowyer / Last updated 19 May 2011
    • Vietnamese flags are draped from the Eden centre for the...
    • The historic Eden Centre breathes its last.
    • The half century relatonship between the Continental Hotel and the...
    • The Continental Hotel and the Eden Centre. The Givral Cafe...
    • These three buildings have shared this square at the centre...
    • A bizarre glimpse of the site's bland future. Where are...
    • Gutted - Givral Cafe no more after six decades.
    • A piece from the local press laments the decision to...
    • Eden Centre's last celebration of Saigon's liberation. Over the past...
    • Eden Centre Saigon - one of the other buildings at...
    • Ngon Restaurant - the most well loved Vietnamese restaurant for...
    • Bun Ta Restaurant. Next door to Ngon, it also recently...
    • Cyclo passes Saigon's former Education Department building. This block was...
    • The building was demolished two years ago along with most...
    • It was replaced by this newly opened tower. While Saigon...
    • Camargue restaurant and the Vasco's bar attached were favourites for...
    • This lovely rundown villa in district 3 - a personal...
    • The nursery man. Whole human ecosystems, sometimes decades old, survive...
    • Heritage buildings facing demolition, Saigon
    • Heritage buildings facing demolition, Saigon
    • Heritage buildings facing demolition, Saigon. Many foreigners assume that interest...
    • The Eden comes down in time for New Year 2011
    • The Continental loses an old friend. Saigon's Eden Centre comes...

    Introduction

    Any regular visitor to Saigon will be amazed at how quickly the city's architectural heritage is disappearing. It may be many decades since Saigon's visual charm matched the capital Hanoi but increasingly, the few remnants of the city's heritage also face demolition. Only the most famous icons such as the Continental Hotel, the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Post Office, seem safe from the onslaught.
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • ©Photo: Mark Bowyer
    • Vietnamese flags are draped from the Eden centre for the last time - marking the 35th anniversary of the communist victory. The Eden Centre, at Saigon's historic heart and dating back to the 1940s, will soon be demolished. For many, the loss of the Eden caps off two years of destruction that have taken a big toll on Saigon's architectural character.

       

    • The historic Eden Centre breathes its last.


    • The half century relatonship between the Continental Hotel and the Eden Centre has been an enduring feature of the city through decades of turmoil. The demolition of the Eden will bring that fragile relationship to a close leaving the Continental and other historic buildings looking increasingly isolated and out of place.

    • The Continental Hotel and the Eden Centre. The Givral Cafe at the Eden Centre's ground level was the centre of intrigue in the city during the war. Graham Greene and lauded Vietnamese Time correspondent and communist spy Pham Xuan An were amongst Givral's regulars. In the decades since, Givral has been a favoured gathering spot for locals and visitors with its views across the Continental and the Opera House (former South Vietnamese National Assembly).


    • These three buildings have shared this square at the centre of Saigon's story for more than five decades. On the left, the Eden Centre, definitely in need of some care and attention. In the centre is the Continental Hotel and on the right is the Opera House - the National Assembly of the Republic of Vietnam during the war years.
    • A bizarre glimpse of the site's bland future. Where are the Vietnamese? No space for history or sentimentality in this consumer nirvana in the middle of Dong Khoi St (Total Uprising St) - formerly Rue Catinat and later Tu Do St.

       

    • Gutted - Givral Cafe no more after six decades.
    • A piece from the local press laments the decision to destroy Givral and the Eden.
    • Eden Centre's last celebration of Saigon's liberation. Over the past three decades, the Vietnamese diaspora in the United States has nostalgically built numerous Eden centre replicas acrosss their adopted home to remember this soon to be demolshed complex by.

    • Eden Centre Saigon - one of the other buildings at the Eden site soon to be demolished.
    • Ngon Restaurant - the most well loved Vietnamese restaurant for foreigners and Vietnamese for over a decade. Its magic was in its food concept and the wonderful open French villa that was its home. The building was recently demolished. The restaurant has reopened in another of the city's increasingly scarce villas.
    • Bun Ta Restaurant. Next door to Ngon, it also recently closed the doors on its lovely villa for the last time for demolition.
    • Cyclo passes Saigon's former Education Department building. This block was until two years ago, home to the last contiguous cluster of stunning villas in the city centre. They would have made an excelllent public space in a city desperately lacking community areas.
    • The building was demolished two years ago along with most of the villas that surrounded it.
    • It was replaced by this newly opened tower. While Saigon will no doubt need more modern office towers. Hopefully the heritage loss will not be as high as it was here. There isn't much left.

    • Camargue restaurant and the Vasco's bar attached were favourites for foreigners and Vietnamese in the "doi moi" era since the early nineties. This villa was demolished two years ago.Many of the heritage era restaurants and bars remembered most fondly by tourists during the past decade have now been destroyed or face demolition.
    • This lovely rundown villa in district 3 - a personal favourite - was recently demolished.
    • The nursery man. Whole human ecosystems, sometimes decades old, survive around these wonderful old buildings.

    • Heritage buildings facing demolition, Saigon
    • Heritage buildings facing demolition, Saigon
    • Heritage buildings facing demolition, Saigon. Many foreigners assume that interest in the heritage architecture is not widespread in Vietnamese society. This is not what I hear in my travels. Many young Vietnamese ask what will be left and what will Saigon 2020 look like?

    • The Eden comes down in time for New Year 2011
    • The Continental loses an old friend. Saigon's Eden Centre comes down in time for New Year 2011.
    Quicklink - Introduction - Ho Chi Minh City

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