A Hmong Palace built with French consent at the beginning of the twentieth century, is located at Sa Phin, 16kms west of Dong Van town.
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Large parts of Ha Giang Province were dominated by the Hmong tribe following their arrival from China centuries ago. During the Nguyen Dynasty, the Hmong King's rule over the area was recognised. Similarly, French colonial rulers acknowledged Hmong control of the region. Like today, the border area with China had strategic significance during the colonial period.
The area was also an important opium trade link.
In 1902, with the consent of the French colonial rulers, Chinese tradesmen built a mainly wooden palace Sa Phin. Two Hmong kings ruled from here.
The first, warlord Vuong Chinh Duc was aligned to the French. The second, Vuong Chu Sen, aligned himself with Ho Chi Minh's independence fighters.
The palace is built like a traditional Chinese courtyard mansion with four double storied wings.
During our visit, one of the descendants of the last King was on hand to take questions from visitors.
Mark Bowyer is the founder and publisher of Rusty Compass.
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